Essential oils and sustainability: Challenges, opportunities, solutions

Written By Ellen Rowland

This article was originally written for and published on herbalreality.com. Read the original here.

Sustainable Aromatherapy

How can we harness the therapeutic benefits of aromatic plants whilst respecting people and the planet?

Essential oils and the biodiversity crisis

With the rising popularity of essential oils in recent years, increasing biodiversity losses worldwide, and the very real impacts of climate change becoming ever clearer and more urgent, talk within the aromatherapy community has turned towards the sustainability of essential oils. There are questions to be asked surrounding the environmental and social impacts of using these precious medicines. How sustainable actually is this natural form of medicine? Are there steps we can take to mitigate the impacts of essential oil use? Are there other factors at play that influence sustainability?

First, it’s important to put this into context. Of around 350,000 scientifically known and documented vascular plants (1), those that are known to be medicinal represent roughly 25,790 and of those, around 1500 are aromatic, which is approximately 6% of all known plants. About four hundred species of aromatic medicinal plants are commonly traded for aromatherapy purposes worldwide, which includes essential oils, absolutes, and hydrosols (2).

The State of the World’s Plants and Fungi (SOTWPF) report published by the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew in 2020 states that two in five plants are threatened with extinction. This means 40% of all recorded plant species and should ring alarm bells for everyone, as human-led practices such as agriculture, climate change and biological resource use are among the primary reasons for this threat (3).

10% of aromatic plants are currently listed as threatened according to The International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) (4).[1] Practices such as deforestation, clearing and using plants with no or unsustainable plant regeneration practices, monocropping and overharvesting wild species all contribute to the unsustainable production and use of essential oils, and therefore increase the likelihood of more species being added to the red list of endangered species. Simultaneously, these practices damage the biodiverse ecosystems which support the growth of our aromatic plants in the first place. The approach of destroying whole areas of forest to harvest just one aromatic tree does not make sense from a biodiversity standpoint, but there are adaptations we can implement in farming and production of essential oils which can reduce and mitigate the harmful effects of these practices.

[1] Galia, F. (2021). #13: Conservation and Sustainability of Aromatic Medicinal Plants with Dr. Kelly Ablard. [podcast] An Aromatic Life. Available at: <https://open.spotify.com/episode/4HBsd3PDhwJTzFZHkD7KJe> [Accessed 12th May 2022].

  • Demand for medicinal and aromatic plants is undoubtedly on the rise. The world has seen “a threefold increase in global trade in medicinal and aromatic plants since 1999” (5) which is largely due to the growing popularity of spas, natural cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, and aromatherapy. According to The Business Research Company’s 2022 report, the global essential oils market size is expected to grow from $12.36 billion in 2021 to $13.58 billion in 2022 at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 9.90%. The global essential oils market share is expected to grow to $21.85 billion in 2026 at a CAGR of 12.62% (6). This projected growth brings with it concern surrounding the profitability of the essential oil and aromatherapy sector for large companies that hold a large market share, many of whom have come under scrutiny for promoting dubious practices.

    The 2020 Netflix documentary series “(Un)well” shed light on controversial practices within the essential oil industry (7)[1], and should perhaps make us consider the lengths certain companies will go to in order to profit. It is unclear which, if any, environmental sustainability protocols are taken into account or adhered to by big players in the sector, and as such, extra care should be taken and due diligence carried out on any essential oil suppliers. This, however, requires knowing which questions to ask them, what documentation or records should be available, and how to choose oils to minimise our impact as individual consumers or therapists.

    [1] The Guardian. 2022. The dark side of wellness: behind a Netflix series on a murky industry. [online] Available at: <https://www.theguardian.com/tv-and-radio/2020/aug/12/unwell-netflix-series-dark-side-of-wellness-industry> [Accessed 12 May 2022].

  • The IUCN labels species as “critically endangered”, “endangered” or “vulnerable”, and as such, a good place to start when sourcing essential oils is to avoid any that come from plants which feature on this list. Agar wood (Oud) Aquilaria malaccensis , Spikenard Nardostachys jatamansi, Sandalwood Santalum album, Palo Santo Bursera graveolens, Atlas Cedar Cedrus atlantica and Rosewood Dalbergia sissoo are all examples of threatened species which should be avoided due to their precarious existence. In general, harvesting essential oils such as those listed above, which are taken from the heartwood of the tree, has a particularly negative impact on habitats since the whole tree needs to be cut down in order to access the essential oil.

  • Frankincense (Boswellia carterii) is an extremely popular essential oil, yet its popularity, coupled with the effects of climate change, mean that this once-abundant oil is now in short supply (8)[1]. Boswellia forests aren’t able to regenerate fast enough to keep up with the current demand, and so due to over-harvesting, many have disappeared. Unsustainable harvesting methods include “making a higher number of cuts per tree to extract as much sap as possible and tapping the trees all year round rather than seasonally” (9) which doesn’t allow sufficient time for trees to recover. Furthermore, these intensive practices “weaken the trees, impeding their regrowth and ultimately killing them” (10).

    Also take a look at our article on the sustainability of frankincense.

    [1] Fobar, R. 2019. Frankincense trees—of biblical lore—are being tapped out for essential oils. [online] Available at: <https://www.nationalgeographic.com/animals/article/frankincense-trees-declining-overtapping> [Accessed 12 May 2022].

  • Sustainability isn’t just an environmental concern, however. Frankincense comes primarily from Somalia, Africa, India, Oman, and Yemen (11) where climate change will hit hardest (12)[1], and where harvesting is often one of the main livelihoods for local populations. There are increasing reports of frankincense resin tappers risking their lives “by climbing up cliffs to find new sources”(13)[2] of frankincense, and there have been “reports of people suffering injuries including breaking legs and in some cases death” (14).

    Unfortunately, frankincense may quickly be becoming one of the most unethical and unsustainable essential oils available. It is clear that wider socioeconomic factors such as safety, and the longevity of local livelihoods merit serious consideration as well as the adoption of more sustainable practices when it comes to the production and consumption of essential oils. Initiatives such as the ‘Adapting Agriculture to Climate Change’ programme, led by the Crop Trust in partnership with Kew and others, will be key in addressing the environmental, social and economic changes which will be caused by global warming.

    [1] Law, T. Time. 2019. Climate Change Will Impact the Entire World. But These Six Places Will Face Extreme Threats. [online] Available at: <https://time.com/5687470/cities-countries-most-affected-by-climate-change/> [Accessed 12 May 2022].

    [2] Unknown. 2019. Essence + Alchemy. Essential Oils – Ethical + Sustainability Issues — Essence + Alchemy. [online] Available at: <https://www.essenceandalchemy.co.uk/lab-notes/ethical-and-sustainability-issues-of-sourcing-essential-oils> [Accessed 12 May 2022].

  • Essential oil production has a high mass-to-yield ratio, since in order to produce essential oil, large quantities of aromatic plants are required.

    For example, 10,000 lbs of rose petals, 250 lbs of lavender, 6,000 lbs of melissa, or 1,500 lbs of lemons respectively are required to produce just one 1 lb of essential oil (15).

    In terms of yield, this is extremely low, and so the question of whether the process and extraction of essential oils is wasteful warrants consideration.

  • Despite Calendula’s popularity in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries, a 2020 Colombian study of a supply chain for Calendula officinalis essential oil production found that “high amounts of exhausted biomass (more than 95% w/w) are produced and wasted” (16) in the course of its production. However, the research revealed several key touchpoints within the supply chain where opportunity exists to reduce emissions (changing how the oils are distilled, for example) and also to contribute to the “social development of farmers” (17) in Colombia through using the exhausted biomass leftover from the plant matter as a “potential high-value “non-conventional agro-industrial feedstock” (18). More research into using aromatic plants as feedstock for agriculture is needed, yet this does seem to represent a possible solution to one of the issues associated with essential oil production and waste.

    Another study focused on the opportunity to use waste from the food industry to produce essential oils, namely citrus peel leftover from juicing (19). Whilst several extraction methods including steam distillation, cold-press and solvent extraction, were tested, solvent-free microwave extraction was identified as the most effective in this study. This method would probably produce resulting essential oils which would be unsuitable for therapeutic use, but the trials do represent an interesting experiment and opportunity to close the gaps in food production cycles through potentially bridging industries and creating a more circular economy.

    Fairwild is also a fantastic initiative, and its mission is “to enable the transformation of resource management and business practices to be ecologically, socially, and economically sustainable throughout the supply chain of wild-collected products. These include plants, fungi, and lichen – wild resources under enormous pressure worldwide.”

  • Using essential oils with respect is one way we can minimise our consumption of essential oils and therefore our impact on the environment. For most aromatherapy products we make at home, we only need to use very small amounts of essential oils. Despite their comparatively low yield of plant matter to essential oil, they are extremely concentrated plant extracts, so little is needed to produce excellent therapeutic and aromatic effects. If stored in an airtight bottle away from light and heat, they have a good shelf life – several years, in fact, which makes them a good investment.

    Since essential oils can be used to make home-made cosmetics, therapeutic herbal remedies and cleaning products, they can be harnessed in this way to reduce the number of products we buy in single-use plastics from large corporations. This has a positive environmental impact in an indirect way, since by making our own products in reusable glass bottles, for example, we’re creating less waste from other sources.

    Finding alternatives to endangered species is also a key way we can reduce our impact when using essential oils. In the podcast An Aromatic Life, during episode #13, Conservation and Sustainability of Aromatic Medicinal Plants, guest Dr. Kelly Ablard advises that we should look at the chemical composition of vulnerable aromatic plants, as well as their therapeutic and energetic factors. She suggests that instead of buying essential oils from vulnerable plants, this information will allow us to choose a chemically, therapeutically and energetically similar essential oil to ensure we are not contributing to the precarity of vulnerable species. For example, Ho Leaf Cinnamomum camphora (Linalool ct.) is suggested as an alternative to Rosewood, Dalbergia sissoo, and even practices like choosing an oil which is taken from the leaf or branch of a tree as opposed to the heartwood, which requires cutting down the whole tree, would be preferable (20).

    One of the very best ways to increase our understanding of how the use of essential oils affects sustainability is through education. Learning about our local aromatic plant species, and plants in general, is key to understanding the ecosystem of which we are a part, and therefore respecting it as a diverse network of intersecting factors that deserves respect. Rather than placing ourselves at the centre of the ecosystem, biocentrism (21) takes the view that humans are just one part of this system, yet it is clear that despite this, we have a great deal of power to influence the whole network substantially, for better or worse, through our choices on both an individual and collective level.

  • Below are some tips to help you ensure that your essential oil purchases are as informed as possible.

    Organic vs non-organic: Which way to go?

    Using organic essential oils is recommended, both for therapeutic and environmental reasons. Minimising the amount of harmful pesticides we are putting on our land and onto our bodies is key to public and planetary health. The Soil Association lists lower emissions, lower levels of pollution, and more stored carbon as just three key reasons that organic farming is beneficial (22).

    Purchasing power: Know your facts

    Asking your supplier the right questions is key to understanding where your oils come from, and how they are produced. A good supplier will often know their farmers and distillers personally, understand and be able to provide you with information on the farming and production practices, and take great care to make it clear exactly how they source essential oils sustainably. Beware of woolly, vague or contradictory information, and essential oils that seem cheap. If it looks too good to be true, chances are it is.

    The COSMOS-standard has also been created as a criteria for sustainable cosmetics. Many large businesses subscribe to this, although more need to still.

  • Whilst individual consumers and therapists are not the main culprits when it comes to harmful essential oil production practices, by making small changes and demanding a level of accountability from our suppliers, we can effect positive change within the essential oil market.

    Purchasing oils in small quantities, as needed, and choosing high quality, organic ingredients sourced from trusted suppliers is a good rule of thumb. Checking the IUCN red list before buying, and eliminating use of vulnerable species will also help.

    There is no need to stop using essential oils, they are wonderful for physical, mental, and spiritual health – but do stay informed so you can use them responsibly.

Ellen Rowland
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